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1 Embroidery Cloths
A general term for fabrics used for hand embroidery work and includes cambrics, canvas, net, silk, etc. -
2 Embroideries
A fine linen fabric of plain weave, one end in a dent, and used as ground cloth for embroidery work. Cotton yarns of super quality are also used in many weights. Many cambric qualities can be termed, embroidery cloths, such as 45-in., 80 ends and 72 picks per inch, 46's T., 42's W. A linen embroidery cloth that is very popular is woven in the 8 X 8 mock leno weave. -
3 A Jour
An all-silk material in plain or figured weave. The ground is gauze. The term is also French for open-work, as in gauzes and embroidery cloths. -
4 Longyi
A loin cloth native woven on hand looms in Burma, and worn by men and women. They are in many designs and qualities and all are about 34-in. to 36-in. wide and 72-in. long. Various names are given to the cloths according to the design. Such as Akwet, Bala, etc.; also see Lungi (1) ————————LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
5 Chikan Work
CHIKAN WORK (see Mun)A form of embroidery, done with white thread on a white washing fabric. The cloths used are of the light type, such as muslin nainsook and malmal. -
6 Loongees
LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
7 Loonghees
LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
8 Loongyes
LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
9 Loongies
LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
10 Lungis
LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
11 Orphrey
Gold or silver embroidery on ecclesiastical vestments, altar cloths, and other church hangings, consisting chiefly of ornamental bands (see Orfrays) -
12 Tapestry
Jacquard figured fabric woven in colours. Woven on power-driven looms and hand looms. Many examples are pictorial, but others are suitable for use as hangings, furnishings, cushion covers, table-runners, etc., and are produced in various designs and colourings according to the prices of the cloths which vary tremendously. Originally tapestries were plain woven fabrics ornamented by hand-sewn embroidery. Some of the most famous tapestries such as Aubusson, Bayeaux, Beauvais and Gobelins, were pictorial, recording domestic, pastoral and historic events embroidered in colours.
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